Egypt, the land of Pyramids, Sphinx and Ancient Tombs.
It all started last Fall when Diane told me that she and Rich were going on a tour with a guy out of Utah to the Holy Lands. They invited me to go with them and there was no question in my mind that I was going to miss this trip. Work was totally hectic the week before to make sure all my paperwork was done, but it was all worth it! I was doing work for school and seminary stuff, right up to 9 pm Thursday night. So that left me hustling around the house late that evening finding suitcases and summer clothes that would still fit me. Yes, I was headed to SUNSHINE. I didn’t get to sleep until midnight I was so excited for my adventure to a foreign country.
Friday, January 22, 2010 ~ Flight to Cairo, Egypt
Since the attempted bombing that took place around Christmas time, the airports had reportedly stepped up their security. So I headed to the airport at 9:30am for my 12:30pm flight to New York. Security issues and long lines were non-existent. I could have arrived 1 hour ahead of time and been just fine. I had plenty of time to do laps in the terminal and climb the stairs numerous times. Although I was WAY early, I still was one of the last people to board the plane. I was sitting at gate 7 and 8 (more on the 8 side) when I heard my name called over the intercom stating my plane would be leaving in 20 minutes. OOPS! I was obviously watching the wrong gate!
The flight to NYC was no-eventful. However, I will mention that the couple who sat in front of me drinking and kissing up a storm about made me gag! The more they drank the louder they got. Ear plugs would not even take away their chatter and lip smacking noise. Come on folks, take it to the bathroom, or to the back of the plane! What even grossed me out more was the guy was short, fat, bald, not good-looking and waltzed around like if he owned the plane. He snarled at the flight attendant when she told him to stay out of 1st class area. Not that I'm judging him by his cover, but how he got the cute young girl (possibly from another country) is beyond me, but then the “other” country thing might explain it all.
I arrived at the J.F Kennedy Airport in NYC at 9 pm. That was an experience! I have never been to that airport and they have separate terminals that you access via an outside air train. So I headed from Terminal 3 were my incoming flight came in to terminal 4 where I was to meet up with the other tour members from Salt Lake City. About the tour group, Diane, Rich and I hooked up with Alan McKay Tours out of Ogden, Utah. Alan has been guiding trips for 20 yrs. More about him to come.
Back to the JFK Airport – I asked for directions to the air train and was told to head to the parking lot to catch it. My word, signs to the air train leave you guessing. Where in the world in the parking lot do you get ON the air train? Asking strangers didn’t help either. So here I was in a parking lot, aimlessly heading to any elevator or stairway - anything to take me to the air train. Frustrating when you can see it running over your head and you have no idea how to get on it. I finally found the right elevator and hopped on for a short ride, only to find out that my connection flight to Cairo was back at Terminal 3. I didn’t have to even leave the 1st terminal that I was in. Oh well, it got me moving at least. I found my “groupies” waiting at the gate in anticipation for the long 10 hour flight to Cairo, Egypt. I introduced myself to Alan to let him know I was there. Once I arrived, he had his full group (excluding Diane and Rich as they were already in Cairo). We left the USA at 10:50 pm, Friday, January 22, 2010.
On the airplane, I sat next to a young man who was from Egypt. He moved to the states to attend college and has not returned to his homeland other than to visit. He got a degree in Business and now owns a restaurant in Charleston. He told me that he was headed home to visit family and that he “might get engaged”. Of course I teased him about the “might” and tried to get him to change it to “I will get engaged”. He was a good-looking young man and he is making a life for himself in the USA. He said he would never move back to his homeland- Egypt –as it is a second world country and he liked living in the comforts of America. Was I in for an eye opener when I arrived to Egypt! Oh and I do have to mention, there WAS a crying baby on the flight, just as there was on the way to Germany. I seem to always have to deal with that when flying overseas – I say knock the babies out with Junior Tylenol PM or whatever to spare the other passengers!
Saturday, January 23, 2010 ~ Arriving in Cairo
When we got to Cairo, we unloaded the plane via stairs out onto the run way. Then we boarded a shuttle bus to the terminal. My first thoughts were, “My, are we stepping back in time or what?" Where’s the breezeway leading into the airport?” We had to get in lines to go through security to receive visas, check our passports etc. One of the ladies in our group left her purse on the shuttle from the airplane, so that was Alan’s first nightmare and of course, this poor woman’s nightmare! In a foreign country with no passport, money or identification. Very scary! I would have cried!
As Alan and the airport security tried to solve the case of the missing purse, the rest of us were retrieving our luggage and were exposed to our first “scalpers” – the bag boys! In Egypt, everyone expects a tip. The bag handlers watched for us to locate our bags on the belt, ran over to get them and put them with the other bags. After they set down your bags, they pointed to their hand that already had a dollar in it. So not knowing that Alan was going to take care of tipping them, I gave him 2 bucks American, unaware that in their currency that equaled $10.00. No wonder he was grinning from ear to ear. I was taken. I headed to the “water closet” (their name for bathroom), and in the bathroom sat a little old lady to greet you. She opened to door for you, turned on the water for you to wash your hands and handed you a towel to whip your hands. Before leaving she asked for money. I handed her $1 ($5 in their currency). She should have been happy!
By 7 pm, we finally were ready to leave the airport with the lost purse and all our gear! Alan said he had to “grease the drivers palm” (meaning giving him some money) to get the purse back, So it is in the land of EGYPT! We had about a 30 minute drive to the Grand Pyramid Hotel in Cairo from the airport. If you want to become an expert defense driver, head to Egypt! There are lanes drawn on the road, but no one pays attention to them. While driving, the driver has one hand on the steering wheel, the other on the HORN! They honk their horn to let you know they are moving over and they just move, cutting you off. There were cars, motorcycles and pedestrians going everywhere. It was insane!
We did manage to get to the Grand Pyramid Hotel unscathed thank goodness to Bob (our bus driver whose name really wasn’t Bob, but Alan knew we would not be able to say, let alone remember his real name – so Bob it was). We also had a guide named Romi who made all of our Egypt arrangements. He didn’t say much, but he was the coordinator of the hotels, bus and connected us up with Tamar – our tour guide while in Egypt.
I roomed with Marlene Buckwalter from California. A very nice lady and very easy going. She has been on a number of tours with Alan and has enjoyed all of them. Our first night, we laughed at our 5 star hotel room, when we noticed the plaster had bubbled on the wall and some other type of growth that looked like stalactilites. We touched part of it and it fell off the wall. OOPS! The bathtub leaked as well. Other than that, it was not bad! Let’s say, I’ve been in worse hotels!
Sunday, January 24, 2010 ~ Cairo - Pyramids, Camel Ride, Sphinx, Museum, Market and THE TRAIN
Sunday is not Sabbath day for the Muslims. Their Sabbath starts on Friday night and Ends on Saturday, so our 1st full day in Cairo, was a work day for many. Our first adventure was to see one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world - The Pyramids of Giza. Yes we had to experience the traffic again! Here is a picture that shows 5 lanes of cars, when there are only 3 lanes painted on the road.
This is a 3 lane road!
If you look closely at the blue truck you will see animals in the back. Want to guess what they are? If you guessed Camels, you are right! Where else but in Egypt would you see Camels being hauled like dogs. While we were driving, we could see glimpses of the pyramids off from the down town area.
Diane, Rich and I at the Pyramids of Giza.
Here I am in front of one of the 7 wonders. What a view!
These pyramids were constructed to be the burial site for the Pharaohs of the 4th dynasty (2630-2475 BC). Their family was buried in smaller pyramids next to them. However, one of the Pharaohs made sure his wife was buried in his pyramid. A true family man!
It was here that we rode a camel to get closer to the pyramids. The Camel owners were much to be desired. One guy saw me standing by myself away from the group, gave me HIS stick and coaxed me to go with him to “his camel”. There were a group of camel owners there, waiting to get their customer to ride on their camel. The guy started walking towards the outer fringes of the area and I didn’t like where he was taking me. I felt like I was being taken hostage and he was going to take me out into the desert, never to be found again! I got to his camel and he wanted me to get on it.
The Camel - Notice that there are no other camels around this one.
I told him no, as the group was still back taking pictures of the pyramids. I didn’t know what the plan was for the group and insisted on going back. The guy was adamant that I got on his camel. He had my camera and took a couple of photos still not understanding me that I wanted to go back to the group. So I grabbed my camera and told him I was heading back to be with the group. I told him I would ride his camel if and when the rest of the group got on camels. The man was right on my tail, mumbling who knows what, all the way back. He would not let me out of his sight and once everyone started towards the camels, he was there to claim his customer - ME!
Yes I finally got on HIS camel!
| I got one to many poises of me like this thanks to my camel owner! |
While riding THE camel, the obnoxious owner would yell, “lean back”, “lean back” whenever we were heading down a hill (the owner was walking beside the camel). I understood why because if you didn’t you’d head right over the camels head onto the ground. It was a short 15-20 minute ride, but plenty long for the butt and thighs to say, “I’ve had enough” – let alone I was totally done with the owner. I got off the camel, gave the guy a $1 and started walking back to the bus area. He starts yelling at me “more money”,” more money”, “10 dollars”. I told him that the camel ride was paid for and kept on walking. I had to tell him it was paid for a couple of times. He finally gave up. A couple other tour group members could not get away from their guys before handing over $10 even though Tamar had paid for all of us. They were refunded, but there again we dealt with the Egyptians and $$$.
We walked into the 2nd Pyramid (second to largest) which housed the mummy of the “family man”, King Khafre. Of course his mummy was not there, nor any of the his belongings that they buried with him. They were long gone, so we walked down into an empty large room the contained an empty tomb. Nothing exciting there, but I can say I went inside a Pyramid. We then headed to the Sphinx of Giza. It is the ancient world’s largest and most famous sculpture. The Sphinx is supposed to be the likeness of King Khafre. Pretty amazing it was.
You can see the remains of the original pathway that led from the entrance
at the Sphinx back to the Mortuary Temple.
at the Sphinx back to the Mortuary Temple.
Mortuary Complex of Khafre
Here I am kissing the Sphinx' chin. Not quite tall enough to kiss his very hard lips!
The poor guy lost his nose by the Mamluks who used the sphinx for target practice.
Their cannonballs knocked off his nose! Poor guy!
The poor guy lost his nose by the Mamluks who used the sphinx for target practice.
Their cannonballs knocked off his nose! Poor guy!
We then headed off to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. Here they have the sarcophagus of the ancient kings. King Tut had 3 shrines and his sarcophagus was in the 4th. They believed in being well preserved or perhaps it was paranoia of being robbed –which they were anyway.
The museum contained mummies of ancient kings, King Ramas II and Queen Hatshepsut to mention two of them. Queen Hatshepsut was quite the gal or MAN? After the death of the king, her stepson was in line to be the King. Queen Hatshepsut thought King Tut was too young to be the ruler, so she acted as king. She managed to gain rulership and disguised herself as a king. She dressed in the traditional garb of male rulers and a false beard.
Before entering the museum of the mummies, the museum worker who took our money at the entrance asked me where my “wife” was. He obviously was getting “wife” and “husband” confused. I told him I had no wife/ husband. He said “Are the men all crazy?” (I think so haha) and then he said “How about me?”. He sat up straight in his chair and straightened his tie. I told him to stand up and then asked if he had any money. He said regretfully, “I work in the museum.” I said “Well then you’re out”. Just having some fun with him. But he was a good-looking YOUNG man. All in fun – either that or he was looking for someone with money.He's barking up the wrong tree if he was looking for money.. now if he was looking for fun and laughter. That's a different story :)!
We then headed to the market by a Mosque. A couple of us tried to get in the Mosque to see the men praying. Women are to wear a hijab (scarf) over their heads, so we figured we would put our hoods on and that would do it. NOPE, we needed a scarf. So we headed to the market. Wow what an experience.
You walk up the very narrow streets and shops are lined up on both sides. Shop owners practically get in your face trying to get you to buy scarves, jewelry and clothing - whatever it was they were selling. You felt like you were getting accosted. You learned real quick to “be rude”, which was hard for some of us. Diane, Rich, Marlene and I headed down a section that was not as populated and our security guard followed us. He obviously didn’t like us being in that section.
So I don’t think I mentioned the security guards (Egypt’s version of FBI/CIA) we had with us while we were in Egypt. Alan always has security with him when in Egypt just for precaution and to ward off the pesky peddlers trying to sell us stuff on the street. They were all young, nicely dressed, clean looking young men. Each one was packing a gun and the handle stuck out of their suit jackets for all to see.
Of course our security guards were all called “Mohammad Ali” – according to Alan. They all had names, but I surely don’t remember them. They didn’t say much, but their presence made us all feel very safe. Egypt also has tourist police. They follow tourist buses and aid in making sure we got on and off the bus safely. Heaven forbid something should happen to an American tourist in Egypt.
After surviving the “market”, we all headed to the Cairo Train station to catch our sleeper train to Luxor. Imagine for a moment a 1930-1940 Hollywood film where men are running to get on the train, grabbing hold of the handle and jumping on. Well that’s what we saw in addition to the oldest, most decrepit trains I have ever seen. We were definitely going back into time at that train station.
Waiting for our sleeper train ~ A passenger train in background
We had to wait over an hour for our sleeper train to arrive. So there we sat dying to see what the sleeper train looked like. We also experienced the “pit” toilet at the train station.
The sleeper train arrived and yep, it was the 1930-40 version.It was much to be desired, it creaked, rattled and shook all night, not to mention I was in a car that was a smoking car. No one was smoking, but it was not a non-smoking car, so the smell of cigarette smoke permeated the rooms. I don't even think a fresh paint job could take away the smell it was so bad. No one got any sleep, except Diane and Rich as they both took a sleeping pill.
When we arrived to Luxor at the train station, our luggage had to be moved from one side of the train track to the other. Three old, Muslim men, dressed in all their garb, hauled all of our bags across the tracks on their shoulders one by one. Notice the young guys watching the old men work! :)
Monday, January 25, 2010 - Luxor - Hatshepsut's Temple, Alabaster Factory, Valley of the Kings and the Carpet Factory
We got to Luxor in the morning and meet Bob #2 (our bus driver) and set out to reach Queen Hatshepsut’s temple before the crowds came. Remember she was the Pharaoh (Queen) who became the King and dressed like a man. She ruled for 20 yrs. Since her temple was built against a mountain side and that mountainside was in the desert, we had a little bit of a drive. We first drove through town and yes, they have the same nonexistent traffic rules as in Cairo. It was just amazing that we didn’t see any accidents.
We drove through farm lands along the Nile River. Sugar cane, cabbage, corn and banana crops were just a few of the crops we saw on our way to the temple. Their crops were so green with palm trees and banana trees growing alongside them.
It was amazing to see all the vegetation growing in what was suppose to be the desert. However, if you recall from Biblical times, civilizations were established along the Nile River as the land was very fertile. Five miles east and west of the Nile River was lushes and green and exactly at 5 miles, it all stopped and desert began immediately. It was almost a set line between desert and livable land. The summers in Egypt reach 130 degrees F. They get 2 inches of rain yearly, so what water they got was from the Nile River. Sheep, dogs, cows and donkeys were all seen on the roads. We saw homes built out of sandstone and saw shacks and shanties. Some homes were made of mud with thatched roofs. Or they had a roof but an outer entrance area that had a thatched roof where the family usually spends their time during the summer months. They also sleep on their roofs during the summer. Totally different from our comfortable sometimes air conditioned homes. We are so spoiled in America.
Homes along a water canal.
We were one of the 1st buses to Queen Hatshepsut’s temple. Alan thanked us over and over again for enduring the train ride which made it possible for us to get an early start in Luxor. As mentioned before, the temple was built against a cliff wall. It had 2 ramps leading to the different levels.
The Temple of Hatshepsut
On the walls of this temple, there were carvings depicting offerings to the Gods and their version of the how to reach eternal life.
Outside the temple area, workers who were hauling rocks and dirt out of a hole in the ground down to a sifter. They were looking for more ancient treasures. Modern equipment was nowhere to be seen. Men were walking up and down the hill carrying their basket of dirt on their shoulders in the heat. I could not imagine doing this type of manual labor in the heat of the summer.
Archeological dig outside Queen Hatshepsut's temple
We made a quick stop to the Alabaster factory. Alabaster is found in the hills throughout the land there. They demonstrated how they made pots by chiseling and grinding etc. The merchandise was very pretty and very expensive.
Next we headed to the Valley of the Kings. This is where a number of Kings were buried. We went into 3 tombs. I don't recall whose tomb we went into and cameras were not allowed in the complex, so I 'm sorry no pictures. The Valley of the Kings is a series of tombs buried deep within the earth. One of the tombs goes down 30 meters. Some of the artwork in the tombs was amazingly well preserved. I remember thinking, "Wow, the people back then must have loved their king to devote so much time and effort to 1: dig out a huge mortuary deep within the earth (Do remember, we are talking about them hauling out by basket or whatever using their own hands and two feet!), 2) chiseling away at the rock walls with small chisels to tell the life and times of their king and 3) then painting the walls and ceilings all before their king died. If he died before the artwork was done, too bad! All work was stopped, he was put in his tomb or sarcophagus with his precious belongings and the tomb was sealed up. It is too bad that the tombs were ransacked. In one of the tombs we entered we could see the chard walls in the burial chamber because the thieves lit a fire under the "rock" tomb so they could get the lid off to steal their fine jewelry, jewels etc off of their mummified bodies. The mummies were all moved out and put into two large caches and eventually one tomb ended up housing 40 + royal mummies in it.
We also visited the Tomb of a Priest who was highly respected by the people because he HAD a tomb. His tomb contained many pictures of how they existed at the time. Lots of pictures of wars, fishing, dancing, celebrations , offerings and hunting. They got their color from the rocks. They had primary colors of red, yellow, Egyptian blue (which is only found in Egypt) and one other color that was not green. Many of the stories were the same, so they used stencils to trace on the wall with red pencil, then another person came by with a black pencil to fix the errors. After that, they began to carve with chisels and painted the figures. The carvings were amazing. Again we could not take pictures because they are trying to preserve what color they have left on the walls. So sorry, no pictures.
It was interesting to see as we left the Valley of the Kings and headed back toward the Nile that you could definitely see a distinct line dividing the desert from the fertile land (remember to click on the pictures to make them bigger so you can see more of the details).
On the way back into town, we stopped at the Carpet School. This is where kids go to school to learn how to tie carpets made of silk or wool. It seemed like child labor, but the kids were there to get an education, or I should say, to be taught a trade. The girls were about 10 years old and up and boy did their little hands move fast. They also demonstrated how you can tell if a rug has been made by hand or by a machine. For silk rugs, if you turn
the rug around so you are looking at it from another angle, the colors will change (nap changes). This means it was hand tied. For Wool rugs they should have the same pattern on the back side as on the front. Of course the Egyptians are always wanting your money, so they had lots of sales men there ready to take our money. One rug I liked cost $8000.00. I don't think so. That is way too expensive. Shipping it home would probably cost just as much too.
Since we had a horrible night sleeping on the train, we called it an early night at the most luxurious hotel I have ever stayed in. The Luxor Hotel in Luxor Egypt. It was by far the best accommodations we had on the whole trip. The bathroom was unreal. The shower had a remote for everything. A regular shower head, an overhead rain shower, water spouts on the side, jacuzzi and you could turn it into a steam room as well. I could not even figure out how to get it all to work at first. AND the toilet. Oh MY! It was computerized. You could control the heat of the seat, the heat of the water that came out of the bidet, when it flushed and much, much more. Of course I tried everything just to experience it all! I would have to admit that the bidet felt a bit weird. But hey, you were clean!

Before dinner, a few of us went for a buggy ride through the city and the city market. The buggies were very extravagant. Here is the buggy that Diane and Rich were in. I sat up with the driver and controlled the reins every time our driver wanted to have a smoke. That was gaggy. But it was fun riding through the city and seeing the night life. Kids would run up to your carriage and beg for money. One little girl hung on to our buggy for a long time before she finally gave up.
After dinner we were all exhausted and headed back to our comfortable plush beds to get a good nights rest. Anything was better than sleeping on the sleeper train. Alan definitely made up for that sleepless night.
AND THE REST OF THE STORY IS T O BE CONTINUED.......
Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - Karnak Temple, Luxor Temple, and Cartouches
Wednesday, Jan 27, 2010 - Our last shopping in Egypt ~ Cairo Airport International flight to Israel ~ Jaffa
We did our last shopping in Egypt by stopping at the Papyrus Store. They showed how Papyrus paper was made and explained some of the facsimiles. The most famous papyrus pictures is that of the family tree with birds in a tree. Another of interest was the "The Final Judgement" which is carved in many temples.
ISRAEL -January 28-February 5, 2010 - THE HOLY LAND TOUR BEGINS
Thursday, January 28, 2010 - Caesarea, Mt. Carmel, Megiddo, Cana and Nazareth
Friday, January 29, 2010 - Mt. Tabor, Bet She'an, En Harod Srings, Jordan River and Kibbutz'
Saturday, January 30, 2010 - Sea of Galilee area
Sunday, January 31 -Masada, Dead Sea, Dead Sea Scrolls
Monday, February 1 - Golden City - Jerusalem, Western Wall and much more..
Tuesday, February 2 - BYU Jerusalem Center - Bethlehem
Wednesday, February 3 - Garden Tomb, Gethsemane, Mt. of Olives
Thursday, February 4 - Holocaust Museum
We also visited the Tomb of a Priest who was highly respected by the people because he HAD a tomb. His tomb contained many pictures of how they existed at the time. Lots of pictures of wars, fishing, dancing, celebrations , offerings and hunting. They got their color from the rocks. They had primary colors of red, yellow, Egyptian blue (which is only found in Egypt) and one other color that was not green. Many of the stories were the same, so they used stencils to trace on the wall with red pencil, then another person came by with a black pencil to fix the errors. After that, they began to carve with chisels and painted the figures. The carvings were amazing. Again we could not take pictures because they are trying to preserve what color they have left on the walls. So sorry, no pictures.
It was interesting to see as we left the Valley of the Kings and headed back toward the Nile that you could definitely see a distinct line dividing the desert from the fertile land (remember to click on the pictures to make them bigger so you can see more of the details).
On the way back into town, we stopped at the Carpet School. This is where kids go to school to learn how to tie carpets made of silk or wool. It seemed like child labor, but the kids were there to get an education, or I should say, to be taught a trade. The girls were about 10 years old and up and boy did their little hands move fast. They also demonstrated how you can tell if a rug has been made by hand or by a machine. For silk rugs, if you turn

Before dinner, a few of us went for a buggy ride through the city and the city market. The buggies were very extravagant. Here is the buggy that Diane and Rich were in. I sat up with the driver and controlled the reins every time our driver wanted to have a smoke. That was gaggy. But it was fun riding through the city and seeing the night life. Kids would run up to your carriage and beg for money. One little girl hung on to our buggy for a long time before she finally gave up.
After dinner we were all exhausted and headed back to our comfortable plush beds to get a good nights rest. Anything was better than sleeping on the sleeper train. Alan definitely made up for that sleepless night.
AND THE REST OF THE STORY IS T O BE CONTINUED.......
Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - Karnak Temple, Luxor Temple, and Cartouches
Wednesday, Jan 27, 2010 - Our last shopping in Egypt ~ Cairo Airport International flight to Israel ~ Jaffa
We did our last shopping in Egypt by stopping at the Papyrus Store. They showed how Papyrus paper was made and explained some of the facsimiles. The most famous papyrus pictures is that of the family tree with birds in a tree. Another of interest was the "The Final Judgement" which is carved in many temples.
ISRAEL -January 28-February 5, 2010 - THE HOLY LAND TOUR BEGINS
Thursday, January 28, 2010 - Caesarea, Mt. Carmel, Megiddo, Cana and Nazareth
Friday, January 29, 2010 - Mt. Tabor, Bet She'an, En Harod Srings, Jordan River and Kibbutz'
Saturday, January 30, 2010 - Sea of Galilee area
Sunday, January 31 -Masada, Dead Sea, Dead Sea Scrolls
Monday, February 1 - Golden City - Jerusalem, Western Wall and much more..
Tuesday, February 2 - BYU Jerusalem Center - Bethlehem
Wednesday, February 3 - Garden Tomb, Gethsemane, Mt. of Olives
Thursday, February 4 - Holocaust Museum




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